Victorian 3-in-1 apron
- Aisha
- May 12
- 12 min read
Hello darlings!
This week I'm coming to you with another tutorial from the Victorian periodical The Housewife (1886). From the same fabric, create three different apron styles which would have been made and worn by a Victorian housewife in the late nineteenth century.
Contents
The Article
Transcript:
‘The universal craze for new materials for fancy-work the last few years has led to all kinds of materials being used, many of which our grandmothers, who took years sometimes over their fancy-work, would have rejected with scorn, as not being sufficiently rich or durable to be worth working upon. But in these go-ahead times, when “Presto change,” is the order of the day, and every material, from silk and satin to common butter cloth and Bolton sheeting, is utilised, it seems almost impossible to find a new and inexpensive material for working upon.
The simple material I am about to bring under your observation seems to have quite escaped the notice of the general run of fancy-workers; and I am sure I cannot tell why, as the work on it is quickly done, very effective, and washes beautifully.
I am referring to the checked tea-cloth material which can be obtained from any drapers in two colours, namely red and blue. There are many ways in which this may be used, both by itself and in connection with other materials. I will, however, confine myself now to one article most dear to all housewives, namely, aprons, for what housewife would think of going about her work, even if only fancy-work, or trying the thousand and one recipes that Miss Jewry so wisely writes for our benefit, without an apron? The first I am about to describe to you is a work-apron (see illustration). Besides the material you will require a skein of cross stitch cotton, red if the check is red, blue if it is blue, and a crewel needle. For a medium sized apron I take the width of the cloth and 28 squares long; you will have half a square on the edge of your cloth, this must be turned down and hemmed neatly, as in all cases the coloured line must form the edge; nine squares must be turned up for the pocket, if you wish to have one, and a row of machine stitching run down the centre so as to make two; a row of fancy stitching must be done down each side and along the centre (as shown in illustration).
There are several different ways in which this fancy stitch can be arranged. The bib of the one which is illustrated should be five squares square and worked on three sides, and the band one square wide and twenty long, this being worked in every square; a bow of ribbon on the two corners of the bib, and, if you so desire, a piece long enough to slip over the head completes it.
Another pretty design, twenty-one squares long, is worked down both sides and across the bottom, there being a pocket on one side or both, as fancy dictates, four squares square and worked all round. The bib is one of the new ones carried right up to the throat; it is six squares wide and eight long, is worked on three sides and is stitched on the right side of the apron with the bottom row of squares to form the frill; waistband twenty squares, neckband twelve.
One of the prettiest is one yard square; for this the material must be neatly seamed together at the half squares and pressed; one corner is pinned at the throat with a bow of ribbons, two are tied with pieces of ribbon at the back of the waist, and in the front the fulness is confined by a piece of ribbon (tied in a bow and the ends left) at the waist. This should have three rows of fancy stitching all round, worked in cottons of contrasting shades. I forgot to mention that all these measurements are for large checks. Some people decorate the red-checked tea-towelling with designs in both colours, which can be very prettily and skilfully blended. Of course, a good deal depends upon personal taste, and considerable variations may be made in the arrangement of these aprons. I merely give descriptions of the simplest designs, which are easily and quickly carried out.’
Materials
1m Fabric
The pattern calls for ‘checked tea-cloth material’ in ‘red and blue.’ From the way the article is phrased, it’s difficult to tell whether it should be red and blue checks, or if it’s either red or blue checks, with possibly white as the second check colour. The pattern also has a scale for the size of check so they should measure 1”, if possible.
I’ve chosen to interpret the colour scheme as red and blue checks but I couldn’t find any in this colour scheme with the correct check size.
Because so little fabric is needed, using scraps or offcuts would be possible for most of these patterns. I found all of the fabrics used in this tutorial in charity shops.
Matching Thread
All-purpose sewing thread either matching the colour of your checks or simple black or white depending on which colour would suit your colour scheme best.
Sewing Needle
With a sharp point and an eye big enough to pull the thread through.
Sewing Machine
This is optional. It’s quicker than hand-sewing and it’s likely that a Victorian housewife of this era would own or at least have access to a sewing machine. However, if you don’t have a sewing machine or prefer hand-sewing that is a perfectly viable option.
(Optional) Decoration:
Darning/tapestry/crewel needle
A needle with a larger head to pull embroidery thread through. Sometimes they can have quite blunt heads, if you have/can find one with a sharper point it will be less strain on your wrists.
Embroidery Floss
The pattern recommends ‘a skein of cross stitch cotton, red if the check is red, blue if it is blue.’ If you have different check colours then choose colours that contrast nicely. Below I’ve listed colour combinations recommended in The Housewife:
Violet and yellow.
Blue and orange.
Green and red.
Orange and violet.
White with any kind of red.
Deep blue and deep red.
Never:
Pink with crimson or scarlet.
Red with orange.
Violet with blue.
Turn-up pockets
Waistband fastened with hook and bar
Embroidery design
Neck band
Patch pockets
Tie waistband (made from fabric)
One piece of fabric
Ribbon bow feature
Tie waistband (made from ribbon)
General tips
Throughout this tutorial I will give pattern measurements in inches with seam allowance included. If your fabric has 1 inch checks you can replace ‘inches’ with ‘checks’ for simplicity. Seam allowances have been included in the measurements.
When sewing pieces together allow for a 1” seam allowance.
When I say ‘hem’ I am referring to turning an edge under by 1/2” then folding it again by another 1/2”, meaning that all hems should be 1/2” wide.
The nature of the patterns mean that they can (and should be!) mixed and matched. If you like a design feature on one but dislike another aspect, you can change the design by following a segment of a different pattern.
To see how I interpreted the pattern check out my blog post by searching bit.ly/ or by going on my blog at perfectlittleparcel.com/blog and searching ‘apron’.
Apron 1
1. Cut fabric
This apron has three pieces. For the apron panel, cut one piece 28” by 25” and for the bib cut one piece 5” by 5”.
The waistband should be 3” and long enough to wrap around your waist, plus at least 3” extra for overlap and seam allowance. For example, my waist measures 24” (corseted + skirt) so I cut a strip 3” wide and 27” long. If your fabric isn’t long enough you can join some 3” strips together, concealing the raw edges with a flat felled seam.
2. Hem bottom edge of apron panel
Along one of the 25” sides, turn under 1/2” then another 1/2” and sew.
3. Create pocket
Turn up the edge you hemmed by 9”. Double check that the ‘wrong’ side of the hem is hidden.
Sew down either side of the pocket 1/2” from the edge. Mark the centre point and sew, backstitching at the top to ensure the stitches don’t unravel over time.
Hem both sides in the same way you did the bottom hem, turned back 1/2” and another 1/2”. Take extra care when the pocket starts as it will get bulkier.
4. Gather top edge
With the last edge, set your machine to the loosest stitch and sew all the way along 1” away from the edge.
5. Hem bib
Hem two sides of the bib by turning them back by 1/2” and another 1/2”. Sew.
Hem the top edge. Add a gathering stitch along the bottom unhemmed edge.
Pull the gathers according to taste and tie off.
6. Attach waistband
Pull the gathering stitches along the top hem of the apron until it measures 15.5”. You don’t want to gather too tightly or the pocket will flop forward unattractively when you wear your apron.
Mark the centre of the apron and centre of the waistband with a pin. Match the pins together and use another pin to join, removing the other two pins.
Pin the waistband to the apron. Remember that there is a 1” seam allowance.
Sew.
Finish the raw edges by turning under 1/2”. Continue to the edge of the waistband and sew down. Using an iron to set the fold will make this easier.
7. Attach bib
Again, mark the centre of the waistband and centre of the bib, match pins and pin together. Pin the rest of the bib and sew.
The same as the other edge, turn under 1/2” (twice in the sections that don’t have the bib attached) and continue to the edge of the waistband.
8. Finish waistband
Turn under the ends of the waistband twice and sew.
Attach a skirt hook to the waistband. To figure out where the bar should go, don your apron and mark with a pin where the skirt hook hits on the other side of the waistband. Sew the bar where the pin is.
Decoration
Required: 2 skeins of embroidery floss, 1 red and 1 blue.
For this apron I am following the original Victorian illustration. You may make your own designs or leave your apron undecorated.
In the illustration there is a kind of ‘star’ pattern. I found a similar stitch in a book from 1899, which is a decade or so later than when this pattern was published. In this book it’s called a ‘Leviathan stitch’ (or star stitch but Leviathan stitch is SO much cooler) and there are instructions for how to place the needle with such a stitch.
To find this book and the instructions go to antiquepatternlibrary.org and use the find on page function to find the ‘Priscilla Cross Stitch Book.’ Click on detail page and you can find the instructions for this stitch on page six, and many others.
In the pattern this stitch fills an inch square. My checks are 1/2” wide so four squares equals an inch. I alternated red and blue stars around the apron, bib and along the waistband. Because the stitch is quite large, I also added a small ‘anchoring’ stitch in the middle of the star to keep the shape neat.
If there aren’t enough squares to alternate them perfectly, you can slightly lengthen or shorten them without being too noticeable.
Voila!
Apron 2
1. Cut fabric
This apron requires more pieces than the previous. For the main apron panel cut a piece 23” by 17” (this was how wide my fabric was, if you’d like a wider apron you can cut it the same width as the previous, 25”). For the bib cut 10” by 8” and for the neck band 14” by 3”.
As the instructions mention, ‘the bib is one of the new ones carried right up to the throat’, and they are not lying. A neck band of this length results in a very high apron with an almost empire-waist. If you would like your apron to sit at a more usual apron height then you will want to make this neck band longer.
Cut two pockets 6” by 6” and four ties 32” by 3”. I pointed the ends by folding one end diagonally and cutting across the fold line. Finally for the waistband cut 11” by 3”. If you’re making a wider apron I would make the waistband 20” long instead.
2. Sew apron panel
Press and hem* the two long sides of the apron.
Hem one short side of the apron panel too.
Set your machine to the loosest stitch and sew 1” down from the last unfinished edge.
3. Prep bib
Hem the bib, first by pressing and sewing the long sides and then the short.
Set your machine to the longest stitch and sew a gathering stitch 1” above the hemmed edge.
4. Finish neck band
Press and fold the neck band hem towards the centre. Sew.
5. Attach neck band
Place the bib and neck band wrong sides together. On the right side (you may prefer left, read ahead to see what I mean) pin the neck band 1/2” away from the edge and make another pin mark 1” up from the edge. Sew along the 1/2” line, backstitching for extra stability.
Trim down the sewn edge a little, then flip the neck band up and sew along the 1” line. This should create a neat shape with no unfinished edges.
Hem the other end.
6. Add fastening
If you have decided to make the neck band longer then you might not need to add a fastening. If this is the case, simply attach the other end of the neck band as you did the first.
If you are adding a fastening, you can either add poppers (I added two so the neckband wouldn’t twist as I was wearing it) or a button and work a buttonhole on the neck band.
Pull gathers to taste and tie off to keep the gathers from unravelling. Place to the side for now.
7. Attach apron to waistband
Find the mid-point of both the apron (the unhemmed edge) and the waistband and mark with pins
Match the pins and pin at the centre point.
Pull the gathering thread until the apron matches the length of the waistband, minus 1” on either side of the waistband to allow for seam allowance.
Pin and sew.
8. Finish waistband
On the side not attached to the apron, turn under 1” and another 1” and sew, covering the raw edge of the apron.
9. Attach bib
Match and pin the centre point of the waistband and bib. Set the gathers just below the top of the waistband and pin, then sew. This creates an attractive little ruffle below the bib of your apron!
10. Create ties
Take your four ties that you cut earlier. Take two and pin them right side to right side, sew and then trim down the seam allowances. At the point, cut directly across a few millimetres away from your stitching line and at the corner cut out a wedge. These two steps will minimise bulk. Repeat with the other two.
Using a long and pointy tool (a knitting needle works great. Try to avoid using scissors or anything too sharp; you can also buy tools specially made for this purpose) turn your two ties inside out.
Poke out the corners then press.
11. Attach ties
Pin the tie to the end of the waistband. Sew
Trim down the waistband seam allowance. Fold the tie seam allowance over the trimmed waistband and turn towards the waistband. Sew, concealing all of the raw edges in the process.
12. Make pockets
Make the pockets by first hemming two opposite sides and then the other. Repeat on both pieces.
13. Add pockets
Place the pockets where you would like them to go. On this apron, I placed them 1” away from the edge and 7” down from the waistband. Sew them down following the stitching lines you made while hemming (don’t accidentally sew the top down!), backstitching when you begin and end to ensure they don’t unravel with repeated use.
Voila!
Apron 3
1. Cut fabric
This apron has the least pieces. Cut a square of fabric 1 yard long (36”).
2. Hem fabric
Hem the top and bottom, then the other two sides.
3. Decide waist tie placement
This is easier when done on the body.
Pin the apron to the throat.
Also pin the two sides of your apron to your skirt. Don’t pull the apron taut.
Take 1m of ribbon. Wrap your ribbon around your fabric and tie a knot in the fabric at your waist level. Mine is 30cm down from the top point.
Tie a bow, then start pulling either side of the fabric through the ribbon tie. This is important as it gives your apron shape. Without it, it looks as though you simply picked up a bundle of fabric and pinned it to you.
Once you’re happy with the placement and shape of your ribbon sew it in place.
Before shaping.
After shaping.
4. Add waist bands
Pin and sew the ribbon at the hem line with the wrong side facing the wrong side of the apron.
Then fold the ribbon forward and stitch it in place, concealing all raw edges.
Finish the ends of the waistband by hemming them, either by hand or using the machine.
Decoration
I had a very specific image in my mind of the ‘bow’ I wanted to construct for this apron. After a bit of playing around with ribbon, I created a design that I’m happy with. Of course, you may decorate your apron to your own tastes.
Cut:
Blue ribbon x3 20cm, x1 8cm.
Red ribbon x2 12 cm.
Take the longer blue lengths of ribbon and curve them into a figure 8, following the image as a guide. Pin in place before stitching down. Repeat with all three lengths.
Repeat the same motions with the two red lengths of ribbon.
Stack the blue and red ribbons following the images above and sew in place. Layer the red on top of the blue in a pleasing manner and sew. With the final ribbon, make a loop and stitch in the centre, hiding all other stitches.
Sew the bow to the top point of your apron. It will conceal the pin you use to attach the apron to your clothing.
Voila!
~
That's it for this week! If you're interested in the process of my deciphering this Victorian pattern I've written a blog post about it here.
As always, I have a Patreon and this tutorial is up on Etsy, so if you would like this tutorial in a PDF form and wouldn't mind a little cash my way as a token of appreciation it's always welcome.
Let me know if you try out any of these aprons and tag me in any pictures you take- I'm Perfect Little Parcel on pretty much every platform.
Until next time,
Aisha x
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